Krazy 3 Baitcast Reels - Clam Pack

All products are covered by a 1 Year Manufacturer’s Limited Warranty, ensuring that we will repair or replace any item that is defective in workmanship or materials within 1 year of the consumer's date of purchase. The warranty covers all but the following:
1. Malfunctions or damage due to abuse, misuse, or accident.
2. Normal Wear and Tear
3. Malfunctions caused by inadequate repair or alterations
4. Reel cleaning or re-lubrication required due to owner’s failure to provide necessary maintenance
5. Abuse or misuse of product

Pick the hand you want cranking after the cast: right-hand retrieve puts the handle on the right, left-hand on the left. Low-profile baitcast reels don't convert, so buy the side you want. We offer left-hand retrieve on select models, and each product page shows what's available; not every model or color comes both ways.

Tie on a lure inside the rod's rating. Set the brakes at half or a touch higher. Press the thumb bar and loosen the spool-tension knob until the lure falls slowly and the spool stops when it lands. Cast smooth, not hard, and feather the spool with your thumb before touchdown. Wind, light lures, or your first day on a baitcaster? Add brake.

Wind it on firm and even, and never bury loose wraps after a snag or backlash; pull that section out and rewind it tight. Use a sensible diameter for the cover you fish, since ultra-thin braid buries deepest. Mono backing stops the spool from slipping, but only tension stops digging.

Low ratios crank slower with more torque, built for deep crankbaits and other lures that pull back. Mid ratios do everything respectably. High ratios eat slack fast for jigs, worms, pitching, and reaction baits.

Mono is forgiving and cheap: the learning line. Fluorocarbon sinks, resists abrasion, and disappears in the water, but it's stiffer and kinks in backlashes. Braid is thin, strong, and rules the vegetation, though it can dig into the spool and usually wants backing. Pick by technique and cover, not by the biggest number on the box.

Engage the reel, lay a light thumb on the spool, and pull line out slowly. When it stops, rotate the spool backward a touch and pick at the loop that's pinning everything. Repeat. No yanking. Then inspect what came off: kinks, flat spots, and crushed fluorocarbon get cut out, because damaged line fails later, usually on a fish.

When the lure's weight, bulk, or wind resistance changes enough to change spool speed, yes. A compact half-ounce jig and a bulky half-ounce spinnerbait fly nothing alike. Check spool tension, make a short test cast, and nudge the brakes. More brake for headwinds and lighter lures; less only once the spool stays under control.